The latter half of October was spent on a long road trip through Quebec, New Brunswick and Nova Scotia. Anyès and I travelled over four thousand kilometres in all, and yet didn't come close to hitting Prince Edward Island or Cape Breton. My European cousins would laugh at the notion that the Maritime provinces are small.
A first leg of the drive, getting to New Brunswick from our eastern Upper Canadian home, involved a stopover at Quebec City. We spent the first night at
le Monèstere des Augustines, in which we'd stayed two years earlier. This time, instead of a suite, we chose to sleep a nun's cell. As I discovered, I'm considerably taller than a seventeenth-century woman.
I won't dwell on our time in Quebec City, though I would like to share a plaque I'd somehow missed on
our previous trip.
I'm pleased to report that plaques are every bit as common in New Brunswick and Nova Scotia.
Fredricton, New Brunswick (pop. 58,200) may have more plaques per capita than any other Canadian city. Amongst the earliest is one affixed to the side of a house that once belonged to Loyalist poet Jonathan Odell.
The plaque honouring Odell can found across from Christ Church
Fredericton's Anglican cathedral. Its former rectory once served as home to Sir Charles G.D. Roberts.
Across the street, a few doors down, we found the home of sister Elizabeth. This discovery brought us to a very interesting news story:
In fact, the heritage plaque was not altered to identify her, as the headline suggests, rather it was replaced with another:
Can't help but feel the Fredericton Heritage Trust missed a teaching opportunity there.
Remarkably, there are no plaques dedicated exclusively to Sir Charles G.D. Roberts, though I know of one in Westcock, New Brunswick. It would appear brother Theodore Goodrich Roberts has no plaques at all! The home in which cousin Bliss Carman was raised has two, the earliest of which was installed at his Shore Street home by the Imperial Order Daughters of the Empire in New Brunswick.
The more recent is the doing of the Historic Sites and Monuments Board of Canada.
Halifax was the easternmost point of our travels. We found blue plaques aplenty, including this one affixed to the house in which we stayed:
Sadly, the city's blue plaques aren't terribly informative.
I doubt Halliburton House has anything to do with Thomas Chandler Haliburton, but can't say for sure.
Curiously, given its rich literary history, Halifax has little in the way of plaques honouring writers. The only one I encountered was affixed to the mothballed Court House.
That's me taking a photo at the top of this post.
The discovery surprised in that it honoured Philippe-Ignace-François Aubert de Gaspé. The author of L'Influence d'un livre, Canada's first French-language novel, lived his final months in Halifax.
The last night of our trip was spent in Rivière-du-Loup. We had trouble sleeping, and so got up early. The place I'd most wanted to visit this trip was the reconstructed
Aubert de Gaspé manor, but St-Jean-Port-Joli was pitch black when we passed.
Next year.
I'm a huge Aubert de Gaspé fan.
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